Monday, January 17, 2011

JAM 2: Vogue 8676, Sort of View A


Front


Back

This is the second time I've used this pattern, a modified version of View A for this version. The fabric I used was a double faced merino wool jersey that I bought from Fabric Mart a couple of years ago. Nice stuff, buy it if they still sell it! This piece has been washed and although it generated a ton of fluff in the dryer, there was very little fulling. I'd been searching for the right pattern for this fabric for a while because I wanted to take advantage of contrasting colors of both sides.

Marcy Tilton's notes on the pattern guide sheet recommended using the plain (View B) collar if the fabric doesn't roll when cut. The jersey I used has very little roll, so I took her suggestion. I also changed the sleeve and cuff to View B because I had a short cut (the pattern calls for 2 fabrics for View A), and I was afraid I wouldn't have enough to cut all the little strips cross grain as directed. I also substituted buttons for the fabric "buttons" of the pattern--just a little too-too for me.

Threads published a tutorial by Kenneth King  on its website last week which was very timely, since he discussed using a rotary cutter with a pinking blade to finish exposed seams on a sweater knit. I decided to do the same thing on this jacket, as you'll see in the detail shots below:


 Sleeve and cuff--per the pattern instructions, the cuff's lower edge was cut on the selvedge, then joined to the sleeve by lapping the raw edges. I reversed the cuff to show the contrasting black side.


Collar and shoulder seam--per the pattern instructions, the collar has raw edges and was attached to the jacket with a lapped seam. I added the pinked edges. I changed the sewing of the shoulder seam to show the black, pinked reverse of the fabric.

One of the most striking features of this view is the use of circular motifs, a perfect way to take advantage of the fabric. They were sewn to the jacket by edgestitching the raw edges of the motifs. The accent lines are raw edged cross grain strips that I pinked before sewing down.


Pocket detail


Back detail

Both jackets were really fun to make due to the unusual sewing techniques used. The jacket itself is a fairly basic shape that's flattering to wear, so I'll hang onto this pattern. It will be easy to modify further--maybe next time, I'll make it with traditional sewing techniques!

15 comments:

Gigi said...

Stunning!

Debbie Cook said...

Oh WOW! I love this! You did a fantastic job with everything.

sharon said...

That is really cool. I love the graphic look. When do you thing we can see it on you - how are you coming along?

Nancy in A2 said...

Super cute!

shams said...

LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE LOVE.

This one is on my list too and yours is INSPIRING.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

What a great jacket! I'm definitely going to have to use this pattern again!

Vicki W said...

Now that's a jacket that might get me back into sewing clothes!

Linda T said...

Oh my! It's WONDERFUL!

The Hojnackes said...

What a wonderful jacket!

Jen said...

Amazing jacket..great work, I love all the details.

Audrey said...

Just gorgeous! A perfect choice of fabric for this pattern. I have some of this fabric in my stash so it is very inspiring to see the garments that others make from it.

Jackie said...

Beautiful!!

Mardel said...

Great jacket! I like the fabric choice and the way you have taken the basic design and made it a bit more elegant with your button choices and the collar/sleeve trim. Very nicely done.

Cennetta said...

Beautiful jacket with interesting details. Great job.

photosarah said...

I made the plain version, but I like how yours turned out with the details. I wasn't sure about the pictures on the pattern itself, but I like how you've taken the elements you liked and made it your own. I also love your fabric!

Here's my simple version:
http://sarahdudik.wordpress.com/2012/07/05/blue-sweatshirt-fleece-jacket/