What I Did on My Winter Vacation

I was fortunate enough to have some time off over the holidays and was able to spend a good bit of time playing in the Sewing Cave. I was able to finish several sewing projects and a crochet one as well.

My first project is the third twin set I've made using the Loes Hinse Sweater Set pattern. It's another older one of her patterns that's still on the Casual Elegance site.

A fast make, and I loved how this set came out. This version was made with 2 yards of a rayon blend sweater knit I bought from Casual Elegance last winter. I couldn't resist the chunky knit print on the fine gauge knit fabric!

The sewing was pretty straight forward, following Loes' techniques. I used a combination of a narrow zigzag and serging for assembly, with only a few hand stitches at the hem of the cardigan (as instructed by the guide sheet) and at the center front neckline (not on the guide sheet). I added an additional button and buttonhole to the front placket since my chosen buttons were smaller than the recommended size.

My next project used the OOP Kwik Sew 2565, which I can always count on for a good T-shirt.

I've made a bunch of these over the years, but when you've got a well fitting basic, why re-create the wheel? My most current version was traced off in 2012. It's a combination of sizes, the neckline has been dropped a bit, and I've adjusted the fit due to weight fluctuations (sigh). I like that the pattern has curved side seams and even has bust ease built in, as well as a high cap for the sleeve.

I originally planned to make this T when the weather is warmer since the fabric is a printed knit lace. However, I noticed there was a big pull in the fabric that had resulted in a hole when I was getting ready to put it away. I didn't want to risk any additional damage, so I cut out the T and sewed it without even washing the yardage first. I have better control using the sewing machine when sewing delicate knits like this, so I used a narrow zigzag for assembly, and a wider zigzag for the hems.

The fabric came from Casual Elegance, but since I had this sitting on the cutting table for a couple of weeks before putting it away, I can't say if the fabric was flawed or if kitty paws were responsible. I've always had a good experience when purchasing from them in the past, so I suspect that Smudge is to blame.

I made a couple more pairs of pajama pants from cottons in my stash. These two I bought from the estate of a sewing friend. I have enough of the black print left over to make another project. For the pattern, I used the McCall's 2476 pattern that I've used many times before.

This particular pattern is probably out of print, but the major pattern companies seem to always have a few sleepwear patterns in their catalogs. I've found that most of the pants are very similar to each other. I do prefer a Miss pattern to Unisex ones because I don't need as many adjustments that way.

The last two projects didn't require patterns since they're scarves! The plaid one came from a remnant that a friend of mine gave me, so I'm not sure of the exact fiber content. One side is a plain weave and the other is brushed. I really like it, and it's already seen a lot of wear. The crochet one is just double crochet and is made from reflective yarn from Red Heart. I wear it when DH and I go on our early morning walks. It's warm and since the yarn is bright and reflective, it also adds a bit of safety.

The plaid scarf was originally a large square with fringe on all sides, but I was unhappy with the way it looked. So I re-cut it into a narrow strip, saving some fringe on either end. The long edges are machine sewn.

A close up of the crochet scarf shows the reflective qualities of the yarn a little better. I went with with double crochet throughout and improvised as I went. It's simple and utilitarian, but that's what I was going for.

2015 First Day of School Project

I wasn't sure if I'd have time to participate this year, but decided to go for it during the long Independence Day weekend. I used a different pattern this time, a circa 1998 McCall's pattern that I got from the ASG Trading Post several months ago. I made the little dress featured in the photograph:

As with previous clothes I've made for First Day of School, I mostly used remnants from clothes I've made for myself. This one is made from some cotton sateen I used for a skirt. It's a little shorter than the other two due to fabric limitations, but I'm sure it will work well for some little girl.

The facing on this one is from the Vogue 8645 dress I recently posted, and the green is a faux linen that I used last year to make little girl's pants for First Day of School. The green is more olive than in the picture.

This one is made from a heavyweight rayon that I previously used for this dress:

The construction was pretty straightforward, all machine stitching and serging. I definitely will hang onto this pattern because the dresses were so easy and fast to make! I hope the girls that get these dresses will enjoy them.

This and That

I'm in between major projects right now, but still keeping busy in the Cave.

DH talked me into alterations and mending on a couple pairs of his motorcycle pants. One pair done, and one to go. The alterations consist of adding some room by adding a wedge of fabric to the center back (both are the same style). Mending is fixing a zipper on one and replacing the hook fastener on the other. Only for my husband!

I cut out a couple more pairs of the TNT pajama pants (McCall's 2476)  late last year and have sewed up both of them as of this weekend.  Here's the pattern, which is out of print, I think. However, there are lots of pajama patterns out there and all of them are similar.

Here's a photo of the latest ones. Yes, folded. You know what pajama pants look like, so this is more to show the prints.

I used "quilter's" cotton for these, which is a nice weight for lounging and sleeping. I used to make flannel ones, but they're too warm to sleep in. These sew up pretty quickly because I've made so many. Instant gratification and a good way to use some of the wilder cotton prints I have. I think both of these came from Nob Hill Fabrics. If you're visiting Albuquerque and looking for souvenir fabrics to take home, Liz's store is a good one to look into. 

I also just completed a crochet project. I don't pull out the hooks often, but it's nice to make something from time to time. Plus, I can work on it while hanging out at home without having to be in the Cave. I learned how when I was in junior high with guidance from my grandma and one of my teachers (thank you Mrs. Penn!). This latest project is a scarf that I found on the Moogly blog, called the Chevron Lace Infinity Scarf. The yarn is just Red Heart, but I loved the Monet color scheme when I saw it. The photo below shows it looped twice around the neck.

I'm pretty happy with how it came out although I found the instructions a little hard to follow. I'm thinking about making the matching fingerless mitts too (so I guess the pattern wasn't that hard to follow!).

One of my latest projects is the result of the Ugly Fabric Challenge sponsored by the ASG chapter here in Albuquerque. My fabric is a beige stretch cotton bottom weight. Let's just say it's not my best color.

There's a lot of it, so I'll be muslining pants and attempting to compete one "real" pair.  I'm currently trying to narrow down the patterns I've pulled from my collection. Any leftover fabric after the challenge will be used for the First Day of School project that we've done for the past couple of years. The fabric is heavy enough for kids' pants.

Another of my latest projects is also related to ASG. We are one of the sponsoring guilds of the biannual Fiber Arts Fiesta, so we need to make some little goodies for a charity fundraiser at the event. I have been going through my Pinterest and the pattern collection to come up with some ideas for quick and cute things to make. I know, charity sewing, but my "selfish sewist" goal is to use up many of the scraps that are taking over my sewing space.

Fleece for Wintertime

I just finished a couple of fleece vests over the holidays. They're perfect for the weather here, substituting for a jacket on milder days or as an extra layer when it's colder.  Today is one of the colder days (Happy New Year!).  I'm still in pjs and probably will be for a while, so I'm going to show them on the dress form.

I cut out both vests at the same time and sewed them right after each other. This is the first one I sewed, using a cat print fleece remnant from JoAnn's.

And some detail shots, since the print obscures them a bit. Collar, yoke, zip and seams:

In-seam pockets:

The pattern is McCall's 5252 View A. Last time I looked, it was still in print.  The McCall's site appears to be down right now so I was unable to check.

I was attracted to it by the design details and the MP3 pocket. However, this is a Unisex pattern, which basically means it's designed for a guy. I used a combination of Small through the armscyes, tapering to Medium through the torso, and I had to do a lot of adjustments to make this vest work. I know, I should have known based on the fit on the female model (who looks none too happy about having to wear the sample garment).

First of all, it's very long. I ended up folding out 2" on the front yoke and upper back. I also shortened at the hem another 1 3/4". Second, the shoulders are also very wide. After sewing the vest together and basting the side seams, I tried it on and determined that I needed to narrow each shoulder by 1 1/4".  Basically, that just involved taking out the basting, laying out the vest and using the curved ruler to remove a crescent of fabric on each side. Due to the upper body adjustment, I had to move the pockets up. Fortunately I figured that out before inserting the zipper and hemming it. Oh yeah, that MP3 pocket? I left it out. I could not figure out a way to make it work with my iPhone 5 and not look ridiculous. The MP3 pocket is really  designed for a smaller device like a Nano. Good thing I have blue tooth ear buds, so it doesn't really matter. 

This pattern is also what Kathleen Fasanella calls "coffin clothes," in that all the details are only on the front--no yoke or seaming on the back. It doesn't matter so much with the print fleece, but if it were a solid... I guarantee that similar RTW garments are not designed like that, and I have the clothes to prove it. If I do use this pattern again (and I might), I will modify the back so that it's not just a blank piece of fabric. With all the issues I had with the fit, I do like the style. I think I'd like to try the pullover version of the hoodie at some point.

The next vest is made from sugar skull fleece I saw at Santa Fe Fabrics during last spring's Fiberly Train weekend. Skulls are a popular Southwestern motif due to Dia De Los Muertos.

Detail of the collar and zip:

Butterick 3257 is a copyright 2001 pattern that I've made twice before. It's a favorite, and unlike McCall's 5252, it's designed for women! Much easier to fit right from the envelope with minimal alterations. I used a combination of View C (the red vest) for the body and View D (the cat print vest) for the collar.

This pattern is designed for wovens and faux fur, so the sewing instructions assume the garment is lined. Since I used fleece, I omitted the lining, then simply turned under and top stitched hems in place. I had to improvise the collar but the instructions from McCall's 5252 came in handy when working it out. The collar is a bit high for me, but it's unlikely I'll ever wear this vest zipped all the way to the top.

Neither vest was particularly difficult to make, although the separating zipper can be a little tricky since it's important to match the upper edge, lower edge and any horizontal seams. I always use a longer zipper than called for by the pattern so I don't have to worry about sewing around the pull, then remove excess teeth later. I also try to leave the the entire zipper together when sewing it to the garment. That way it's more likely that the sides will match up.

I noticed that the JoAnn's fleece was thinner and less dense than the fleece from Santa Fe Fabrics, but it's not terrible. I wouldn't consider either to be "technical" quality fleece, but fine for normal wear. You can make a vest out of a small piece of fleece. I had a yard or less of each, and I have remnants left that I can use for mitts, etc. 

Labor Day Shopping

Sunday was a busy day--church, a hair appointment, and dinner out. I had a little spare time between church and hair, so I visited JoAnn's and Hancock Fabrics. I am trying to limit my fabric shopping for a while with limited success. Less fabric is coming in and I'm still buying, although I'm being more discerning. So partial success.

As expected, sales at both stores...and I'm not on a pattern diet. I found several patterns I actually liked and the price was right. Between them, McCall's, Butterick, Vogue and Simplicity were all on sale.

We shall see what eventually gets made and when. I think I was really in a jacket mode when selecting patterns, though.

More Charity Sewing

I have been working on the First Day of School Project this weekend since our July 11 donation day is rapidly approaching.

The girl's outfit is essentially done, although I'm still considering some trimmings to "girlie" it up a little bit. The pattern has some fabric bows in one of the pant views--how cute would that be on the capri pants! And if I'm feeling ambitious, I also have some pretty lace for the hem of the matching peasant top.

The boy's outfit is well underway with the sewing I did on Saturday. Last weekend I actually found some decent cotton twill that coordinated with the shirt, so I've been working on them this weekend. I modified the pattern to include a fly zipper, which worked out pretty well. I used a combination of Sandra Betzina's technique and the method shown in McCall's 6391, which happens to be the pattern I found that has fly front shorts...for a girl.

I consulted with DH and learned that the fly stitching needs to be on the left side for boys, which is the opposite of the pattern. So I worked in mirror image, and I'm very pleased with the results. More fly front garments in my future after this!!  I'm keeping elastic in the waistband as well, because I don't have an exact size for the little recipient.

In addition to finishing the shorts, I need to make buttonholes for the boy's shirt and sew on buttons. That shouldn't take too long.

I had hoped to have some more outfits made but I think two will be all I can do for this year. The coordinator of the project wants to do it again next year, so I'll do more in between other projects and have them ready for next time.

I'm hoping to post some pictures tomorrow (fingers crossed), so you can see what I've been working on  for the kids.

McCall's 6069 View B,OOP

I missed my first deadline for the wedding on Thursday, but the second deadline of New Year's Eve isn't until Monday at 8:00 pm, when we head out for dinner. Based on progress so far, I think I'm still on target to have a new outfit. Here's where things stand as of yesterday evening:

Which is a long way from how I started the morning...

I need to finish the waistband, hem the sleeves and skirt, and add some lingerie guards. Not too much, really. Most will be done by machine.

To recap, I'm making the sleeved version of this dress.

It is coming together quickly, but the "one hour" designation is a bit of a stretch!  I do like it though and there are enough variations that I can see making it again.

Butterick 3257 is Done (plus new projects)

I finished this vest a couple of weeks ago--a little more handwork could be put into it but it's very wearable as is. So let's call it done and move on.

I've worn it at least 3 times--yes, that's how much I like it! I wish I knew how to get more of this fabric because it looks great and was so much easier to handle than I expected.

I added a little extra detailing to the vest. Probably no one but me will see it but I'll know it's there. And now, so will you.

You've already seen the lining...

But I added a little something extra to finish off the edges of the armholes and hem...

This is basically a Hong Kong finish.  I used a mini check rayon blend suiting left over from another project; it's a rayon blend suiting that I just love. I probably could have just serged the edges, but this is so much nicer, don't you think?

After I applied it to the raw edges, I folded back the allowances and top stitched through all layers where the binding joined the outer fabric. I slip stitched the edge down on the hem but didn't have time to do the same to the armholes. Ahh, well. Looks fine from both sides and I like the more dimensional look of the bound edge not being tacked down.

And on the the next projects!

• I had one last big piece of the mini check suiting left, so I cut a Loes Hinse Boot Skirt from it. The picture below is the longer version but I'm making the shorter one, View C. To avoid having the skirt "velcro" to my legs when I wear tights, I underlined it with leftover charmeuse from the vest.  This should be a quick project.    

• A young couple that DH and I are friends with are having their wedding celebration Thursday night at a local hotel, so I decided that I would need a dress for that. So at December's Material Girls meeting, I cut out a cocktail dress from some EOS buttermilk jersey I had in the stash--it features a lace print and the fabric is dusted with tiny metallic gold dots. And if I don't get it done, I'll improvise something else for the wedding and wear it for New Year's Eve instead.  I'm using McCall's 6069, a popular cowl dress that's been all over the sewing blogosphere (unfortunately now out of print). I'm making View B, the sleeved version.

• I also still have that Kwik Sew 2565 t shirt cut out and ready to go. I actually had this traced and cut at November's Material Girls, but I decided that the torso should be double layers because the fabric has some sheer bits. I got that done at December's gathering. 

Oh yes!! Before the day is done,  Happy Holidays to you and yours!

McCall's 5384 (OOP)

I made this top over Memorial Day weekend in May, but I just recently realized I hadn't blogged about it. I made View A, which is the eyelet one on the pattern envelope. The pattern is copyright 2007. I have been meaning to make it every summer since I bought it, but things kept getting in the way. You all know how that goes.

I made it from a lightweight rayon and linen blend stripe that I purchased from JoAnn's on clearance a few years ago--still working that stash down! The stripe was a good choice because there are a lot of different style lines that can be accented by cutting the pieces either crosswise or lengthwise. The front is just a basic dolman style that's been cut across the middle. No shaping; the seam's purpose appears to be to add a little bit of interest to an otherwise boring swath of fabric. The back also has a decorative seams but this time, a raglan look. Here's what I mean:

I cut out a straight Small, which I never do, and there is still plenty of ease. The "waist", which is formed by elastic inserts on the front and back, hits me at my actual waist vs. the empire style of the picture. And the length is more of a tunic than a top. Regardless, I still like it and it's wonderful to wear on a hot day due to the deep kimono sleeves. Yes, you could potentially see a bra but since I don't go around with my arms straight out in daily life I think I'm OK.

I don't think I'll make this again since it's quite distinctive. Also, my ASG friend Susan wants to borrow the pattern. I don't lend unless I'm willing to give it away. Nothing against my friend, but I've lent too many things in the past to various people that were never returned or came back in terrible condition. So to me, "lending" equals "giving."

Fabrics and Projects

I'm adding photos of the cottons I bought at Nob Hill Fabrics:

I guess both of these would be considered "quilt cottons" in some circles, but I think they can stand on their own as well.

I also finished the latest batch of pj pants after DH and I returned from a wine tasting Saturday afternoon:

I know you've seen similar before, but these are fun to make and great for hanging around the house. If it weren't for items like these, what would I do with crazy cotton prints that catch my eye and fall into my shopping cart?

Yay, February!

Yes, I'm still here. And I'm actually getting some sewing done! Another batch of pj pants using that stand-by of mine, McCalls 2476. I know. Not all that exciting but a bit of utility sewing is always good after a break. I made one pair last weekend, and almost completed the other two this morning. Gotta love a peaceful Saturday.

Life is slowly returning to normal (fingers crossed). The church pledge campaign has ended, thankfully, also the annual meeting and election of new Vestry. The spike in activity at work has passed, so things are proceeding at a busy but more sane pace. It's been so crazy that I finally got the Christmas stuff put away only last week (hangs head in shame). Whew--there was a lot to deal with during January, no wonder I couldn't get much sewing or blogging done.

And as usual with no time to get any actual sewing time in, I've been buying sewing related things. I discovered another local sewing shop yesterday, Nob Hill Fabrics, located on Central near Carlisle. I've known about this place for a while because the owner made a presentation to our ASG chapter and my friend Leslie teaches there. But this is the first time I actually visited. Yay, another independent store on my way home from work! I bought a couple of cottons while there (pictures to follow), and I have my eye on some other pieces. I'm still working on sewing down the stash though, so hopefully they'll still be there when I visit again.

I know I have several questions in my in-basket here at SewWest, so I hope to catch up with those in the near future. Have a great weekend and enjoy the Big Game no matter who wins!

Where Did the Weekend Go?

Busy times continue here at Casa DaQ. At some point, I'll get into details but I've been asked to keep them quiet at this time at DH's request. Anyway, last week was a blur.

Today has been a much-needed lounging day, which included time in the Sewing Cave. No real sewing as yet (repairs to a bath towel don't count!), although I cut out 3 more pairs of the McCall's 2476 pj pants, laundered the new knits that came from Casual Elegance, and traced off the new TSW Ann's Cardigan pattern. It was so nice to get some creative time to myself after such a hectic period.

I hope to have some new sewing projects to report on soon! I now have several items in various stages of production, so it's time to fire up the machines and make something!

More on the Haul from Material Girls

You wanted pictures? Are you sure? 

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Well, here goes....

They're not the tidiest shots, but I think they'll give you some idea of what's there. 

This first set is mostly in the washing machine right now.  Even with a Color Catcher, I thought it best to hold back a few of the lighter colored pieces.

The next group consists of wool, viyella, velvet, faux fur, ultrasuede, etc.

These are children's fabrics. I grabbed these because it's my understanding that my workplace is involved with the school system's clothing bank for homeless children. I've already talked about not liking charitable sewing, but anything made from these would be at my own pace, rather than an event with a definite place and deadline. We'll see what happens.

The fabrics are mostly cottons and cotton blends.

Patterns. I'll probably cull these down but there were some nice classics in there

I find it very difficult to ever pass up a free zipper, so these came home with me too.

So there's the haul to end all hauls. I really would like to use some of it--there's some quality stuff in there!