Tuesday, April 12, 2011

TSW eShrug Sleeve Tutorial

I've had a couple of requests for more information on lengthening the sleeve on the eShrug, so here goes.

First, a bit about the pattern. The original eShrug pattern comes with a separate sleeve (good) that's cap length (not my favorite). It fits into an armhole formed by sewing together the shoulder seams; there is no side seam. As a result, the sleeve is sewn in the round vs. flat. Select the shrug size you want. I found the size range to be roughly that of the "Shapes" patterns at the TSW and Louise Cutting web pages. This isn't a fitted garment and is forgiving in shape. I recommend a knit with a floppy hand for the best result.

For this tutorial, I'm using a leftover scrap of knit from this project. I'm also using markers so you can see what's going on. You'll want to use chalk or similar, OK?

On the armsye (top) of the sleeve pattern, mark 5/8" on each side.

Then fold the arm seam below the marks out of the way.

Lay out your fabric (2 layers, like sides together) and pin the pattern in place, leaving room for additional sleeve length.

Then I laid a TNT long sleeve pattern piece over, just to get an idea of the length I'd need. This one is from a t-shirt pattern that I use all the time. You can also measure from a RTW sleeve, but it's probably best to compare knits with knits. Notice that the pattern pieces vary in width, but the location of the seams under the arm align.

Mark a small horizontal line at your desired length. My sleeves have a raw edge, so the line is at the desired length; there is no hem allowance. Remember to add one if you're going to hem the sleeve.

Using the armscye dot on the pattern as your guide, make a small vertical mark on the line you just made. This is the center of the sleeve.

Then figure the desired circumference around the wrist. Mine is 8".

You can take this from an existing (knit) garment or just measure around your wrist.

Divide that number in half, add 5/8", then mark the result on either side of the center mark. Following my example: half of the wrist measurement is 4" so I'd draw a 4 5/8" line from either side of the center mark (4" lines in pink, seam allowances in purple).

Draw a chalk line from the ends two wrist lines to the armscye lines you made on the pattern (green ink).

And here are the sleeves, ready to be cut out. You did remember to lay out your fabric double, didn't you?

And remember you can always cut off a sleeve that's too long but you can't lengthen--if in doubt, be generous. Same with sleeve width, you can always re-sew and trim off if the sleeve is too wide but it's harder to repair a sleeve that's too narrow.

This is a quick and dirty, on-the-fly method. I chose not to invest a lot of time in getting it "right". And it worked for me. If you want to use a French curve or work it out on paper first, go for it, but you don't have to.

1 comment:

gwensews said...

That's great! Thanks so much. I'll file this tutorial right now.